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Medieval Costume
Medieval Cookery
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Medieval Costume
It is expected that most people will be able to recreate a medieval look with what they can find in wardrobes, attics, and charity shops. Wherever possible, reuse or recycle. The image is that of the Anglo-Norman period around the year 1258, but fashion remained much the same from the time of the Norman Conquest in 1066 through to the start of the 14th century.
Think Robin Hood - usually set at the end of the 12th century - and you will not go far wrong.
Colours were obtained from natural dyes and tended to fade. Some colours were impossible to obtain, such as bright green, bright pink, sky blue, and turquoise. Other colours, like bright red, purple, and pure white or black, were very expensive and therefore scarce. Natural-looking colours work best: off-whites, yellows, oranges, greys, browns and greens. Also muted reds, purples, and blues.
Linen and wool are authentic (but not knitwear – knitting did not become popular until the Tudor period), but cotton or poly-cotton are acceptable substitutes. Most garments look best if made from heavier, coarser materials. Where possible use old clothing, curtains, blankets, or fabric offcuts. Consider having the rougher side showing. Plain colours rather than patterns.
It may be possible to achieve a convincing medieval look with clothing you already posses. It is obviously ideal to avoid anything with visible logos, zips, buttons, etc. Try wearing a natural-coloured round-neck top, such as a sweatshirt, under a plain bright coloured long T-shirt belted at the waist with a simple leather or cord belt; plain tights, leggings or jogging trousers; basic ‘leather’ flat-soled shoes or slippers, such as dance shoes or moccasins, or pixie boots. A handmade coif or hood of the type described below will further enhance this look.
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Making a Coif
The coif, a white close-fitting cap of linen, wool, or silk, which could be tied under the chin, was a commonplace item of headwear worn by all classes and both sexes. It was worn both outdoors, often with a hat or hood, and indoors.
A coif remains very practical for keeping the head warm and hair tidy. Once you’ve made one you may find yourself wearing it all the time! If you chose to make only one item it should be a coif.
Material: Linen, cotton, poly-cotton (4 x coifs can be made from an old pillowcase.)
Instructions:
A = Measure over the top of head from ear lobe to ear lobe. Divide by 2. (Approx 220mm/9.0")
B = Measure around the back of head from temple to temple. Divide by 2. (Approx 200mm/8.0")
C = Add about 40mm/1.5" to B.
Fold the fabric. The top of the coif is on the fold. The face opening should be at the selvage (woven edge of fabric.)
The bottom edge can be square to the front, or angled as per the pattern.
Sew up the back seam and hem the other edges. Contemporary illustrations show that the stitching can be hidden or decorative.
Add ties at the front corners. The ties can be 10mm/0.5" ribbon, or tubes of fabric turned inside out, or rectangles of fabric (Approx 400mm/1.5" x 250mm/10.0") folded over so that the raw edges are not showing and sewn down the outside edge.
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Making a Hood
The hooded cape was an everyday top garment made from fabric or animal skin. Towards the end of the 13th century the point of the hood, the liripipe, increased in length to hang down. Some almost reached the ground. Decorative shaping around the edge of the cape is called dagging.
Material: Medium weight fabric.
Instructions:
A = Measure around head vertically from under chin. Add about 100mm/4.0". Divide by 2.
B = Measure around head horizontally from forehead. Add about 100mm/4.0". Divide by 2.
C = Measure from neck over shoulder to midpoint of upper arm.
Check that the face opening is large enough to allow the hood to be easily pulled up or down over the head.
To allow the cape to hang lower at the back scribe line C from a point slightly rear of the centre point.
The cape can be stitched up the front (ensure that the neck opening is large enough to pass over the head) or fastened under the chin with ties or a toggle.
Some haberdashers can supply stretchy fabric tube that can be worn over the shoulders and head like a snood. Alternatively, try wearing an old natural-coloured sweatshirt (one which has the neck opening slightly stretched) with the neck around the head as a hood, one arm hanging down, and the other slung over the shoulder with a brooch to hold it in place.
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Making a Tunic
A tunic, or bliaut, was a wool garment worn by both men and women over a linen shirt or chemise. The length varied, but knee-length was common for men and ankle-length for women. To allow freedom of movement the tunic would either widen below the waist into a skirt, or be slit to about hip level. Slits were usually at the sides, but could also be at the front and back.
Tunics were pulled over the head. The neck tended to be round and close-fitting, perhaps with a small slit at the front. The sleeves of a man’s tunic generally narrowed towards the wrists whereas a woman’s bliaut was often loose sleeved to show the sleeves of the chemise underneath.
Material: Medium weight fabric.
Instructions:
A very basic tunic can be made in the form of a tabard, either stitched at the waist or just belted. Typical patterns for a simple and more complex tunic follow:
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Example Costumes
 | These are examples of medieval costumes.
To help you get into the part it might be helpful to ‘role-play’. Perhaps adopt a medieval name, or imagine what job was the medieval equivalent of your present career. |
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