Coneflower

If your looking for a perennial that’s a little bit different, then why not try the Coneflower, Echinacea. The flowers are unmistakable and they are so easy to grow, blooming from late summer well into autumn. The flowers are cone-shaped which gives them their common name, surrounded by petals in shades of pink, red or white. Originating in North America they were used by the Indians for medical use. It was discovered in the 1920’s that Echinacea purpurea could ward off colds, flu and a few other complaints such as infections of the urinary tract and respiratory conditions. It was also thought that made into a paste and placed on a bandage it would help to heal wounds. Echinacea purpurea remains the most popular type seen in the gardens, with its brown-centred, purple flowers. It will grow to a height of around 5ft, but there are many others to choose from including Echinacea angustifolia which is a beautiful yellow variety growing to a height of 3ft. Another tall variety is Echinacea pallida which grows to about 5ft and produces masses of blooms ranging from pink through to purple. A couple of others to try are Echinacea paradoxa with yellow flowers and Echinacea tennesseesis which has greenish-pink cones and dark mauve petals. They have of course been hybrised, and a couple of the best are, “White Swan” with a yellow cone and white petals and “Robert Bloom” with dark centred cones and mauve-crimson petals.

Hellebores (The Christmas Rose)

The Christmas Rose is not a rose, and it takes a little effort to actually make it flower at Christmas, yet Helleborus niger is such a beauty that you'd be prepared to forgive it anything!it's a cultivated cousin of the buttercup that's more likely to be flowering from January to April, and is just one of almost 300 species and cultivars of hellebore. Be warned, if you decide to grow the Christmas rose, you'll to be beguiled by its beauty and before long you'll be filling your garden with its other wonderful relatives. H. niger has been cultivated since Roman times for its gorgeous white, sometimes pink-tinged, waxy flowers with their cluster of bold golden stamens. The dark green evergreen leaves form a wonderful display, but usually look untidy by the time the flowers appear, so you'll need to take them off to stop them from spoiling the show. The Christmas rose is a native of central and eastern Europe. It is found mainly in high altitude woodlands that are blanketed by snow in winter. Take a tip from nature and plant it with other flowers that enjoy the same habitat and flower at the same time. The popularity of the Christmas rose has led to the development of loads of good named varieties. The Harvington hybrids are some of the earliest, starting to flower in early December through to April. 'Higham's Variety' is another Christmas-flowering form. It was introduced by Carol Klein: the variety was discovered and given to her by her grandfather. For a real eyecatcher try 'Louis Cobbett'. On this variety the buds and reverse of the flowers are pink and the stems dark red. Similar pink blushing beauties are listed as Blackthorn Group but they need a sheltered spot as they are only just frost hardy. A little tougher and just as pretty are those in the Sunset Group, with apricot petals. More delicate is 'Madame Fourcade', an old dwarf variety that is in limited supply. It's worth pursuing both for its pretty flowers and the fact that they appear as early as November. Another rarity is 'Saint Bridgid', which has tall, attractive, dark green leaves. One of the best known named varieties is 'Potters Wheel'. The flowers are huge, with a bright deep green flush and a mass of golden stamens. One of the best, it grows as if it knows it. One that has nothing to do with Del Boy, but 'Trotter's Spotted' is a plant that gives large, pure white flowers for months. The final choice is 'White Magic', which has dark stems with clusters of small bright green leaves making a perfect foil for the flowers. Hellebores are a favourite with plant breeders, hybridising readily and producing masses of seedlings. H. niger has lent itself to several stunning. H. x ericsmithlii is a cross between H. niger and H. x stemii with stunning lobed leaves that have silvery veins and spiny margins. The flowers have varying tones of pale pink with green tints on the reverse. One That is hardy in the south of England is, H. x ballardiae. A great plant for a frost-free spot. The leaves are striking and flowers purple-pink. There are some good selections of the tough, robust hybrid H. x nigercors which is notable for producing masses of flowers, ideal for cutting. Look out for 'Alabaster' which has large creamy white flowers fading to pale green. Even if you don't grow a long stemmed form of hellebore, one of the best ways of displaying flowers is to cut them with an inch of stem and float them in a bowl of water. Hellebores are particular about their growing conditions, and success is all down to site and soil, which is why many gardeners find them difficult to grow. Give them dappled shade or the protection of a north wall where the sun is not too bright, and they'll flourish. Prepare the ground before planting as hellebores hate waterlogged soil: add grit and organic matter to heavier soils, and a good dose of organic matter to those that are sandy or poor. Combine this with an annual mulch of leaf mould or mushroom compost . Spent mushroom compost is particularly good if the soil is slightly acid, as hellebores prefer limy conditions. Although they like dappled shade, don't plant them too near the base of trees where it gets very dry, or in heavy shade where growth will be slow and flowers few. They'll also suffer if planted too closely, so make sure there's about 3ft. unfortunately, the Christmas rose suffers from one of the most common hellebore problems, leaf blotch. Brown patches appear on the leaves, then gradually spread, affecting stems and even flowers. Cut off infected leaves immediately or spray the whole plant with a systemic fungicide like Dithane 459. Regular thinning of leaves to improve air circulation helps, too. Hellebores also have their own specific aphid, as well as being attacked by other species. Squash small infestations with your fingers, or spray regularly. Use a soft soap if you don’t like using chemicals. The only other problem you're likely to have is slugs and snails . Propagate in early spring, by lifting and splitting large clumps with an old knife. Take care not to damage roots, especially the young ones which will help the new plant to establish, and ensure that each division has one or two leaves. Even if you choose earlier flowering forms it's not uncommon for the flowers to appear after Christmas. You can persuade the plant to put on an earlier show by covering it in mid autumn with a cloche. The protected environment can advance flowering by up to a fortnight, Anyway which ever way you do it, you will enjoy your Christmas rose.

Red Hot Pokers (Kniphofias)

Gazanias.

The common name of Treasure Flower could not suit this South African beauty more. A tender perennial, gazanias are a valuable garden flower. Their bright daisy-like blooms are available in many colours and the more you look at their flowers the more beautiful they seem, with blooms in cream, yellow, orange, red and pinks over foliage that can be either green or grey. Some have petals striped in two contrasting colours. But the best part of these plants is the colouring found around the central yellow disc where the base of the petals has a square of black or dark green, often with a bright white spot. You must plant them in a sunny spot or the flowers will remain firmly shut. They like a light well drained soil and will not tolerate a heavy, wet position. They are quite small averaging about 8ins high and the same across. To get special colours you will need to buy named varieties, but if your not too fussy they are easily grown from seed. Seeds are large and if you sow during march or before they will flower the same year. If you want to keep them for the following year you will need a cool greenhouse. Treat them exactly the same as over-wintering fuchsias and you can take cuttings the same in the spring.

Hardy Cyclamen

If you want something to give you a display now through to the spring, then you can’t do better than hardy cyclamen. Cyclamen hederifolium is first to appear with pale to deep pink flowers in autumn. The leaves, as the latin name suggests can be ivy-shaped with silvery-green patterns, but vary quite a bit in shape and colour. Shortly after Cyclamen graecum will be flowering pink or white, and all shades between. The heart shaped leaves are velvety and dark green. Another autumn Cyclamen is C. rohlfsianum with leaves of light and dark green and pale to lilac-pink flowers. Round about Christmas time Cyclamen coum comes up in the garden. The rounded leaves are dark green, sometimes with silver patterns, and the blooms are carmine. Even then their not over as spring sets in, C. repandum comes into it’s own. Jagged-toothed leaves with red to purple blooms. Of course there are lots of named varieties with flowers in all shades of pink, mauve, purple or white. For the best effect, cyclamen should be planted in large numbers. They need a well drained soil in a shady spot. If your garden is wet, clay soil it's probably best to grow them in pots, or plant them in your border in the shade of a large shrub. Plant the tubers with their tops just showing through the surface. One warning though. Cyclamen tubers are still being dug up from the wild, and while most nurseries grow their stocks from their own seed supply, these illegal ones can be found on dodgy stalls in markets.

Hollyhocks

Think of a cottage garden with clouds of gypsophila and roses, columbines and lavender with the upright spikes of lupins and delphiniums. But there is always a handful of hollyhocks. No cottage garden is complete without them. The alcea genus covers about 60 species of hollyhock. Although often short-lived perennials or biennials they are in fact fully hardy. You're very likely to come across the species A. ficifolia. It has single yellow flowers, with the occasional double and is either biennial or a short-lived perennial. Occasionally blooms are pink, white and apricot and it's one of the most vigorous hollyhocks. Another much-grown species is Alcea rosea. There are many cultivated varieties of this one and single flowers range in colour through white, pink, purple and yellow. It's known as the common hollyhock. To the amateur eye there is very little difference between rosea and ficifolia as they reach the same height and have the same growing requirements, so your choice can simply be made on flower colour. So why don't we see a lot more of them about? Well, there is one problem. Hollyhock rust, and it can be very unsightly. The large orange splodges are very bright, very distracting and very debilitating to the plant. It's a fungus which appears on the leaves in late spring and, other than removing affected leaves as soon as you see them and cutting the plant back to the ground every autumn , there's not a lot you can do about it, although there is breeding of new hollyhock varieties to improve rust resistance. Single flowered types tend to display a greater resistance to rust infection then the double flowered forms. Some to look out for are, 'Black Knight' this has good rust resistance. The flowers are large, single and sometimes semi double in a glossy, burgundy black and the plants reach 6ft. tall. 'Happy Lights' is also a single in a range of colours and is said to have the greatest rust resistance of any hollyhock. Next is 'Pastorale', a single and semi double mix in pastel shades including salmon, soft apricot and deep rose. there are a few things you can do to help the plant fight off the fungus. The main thing is to gjve them plenty of room so there is good airflow about the leaves. Remember these are big plants so give them 18-24in. around the plant. And finally you really need to start off with a rust resistant variety.

Crocosmia

Do you want something easy to grow, no pest and disease problems and guaranteed flowers? Then try Crocosmia. When other plants have faded, Crocosmia will continue well into the autumn. Try growing Crocosmia 'Lucifer' the fiery red Crocosmia. It will contrast really well with the blue blooms of ceratostigma. Crocosmia also enjoy a long innings in partnership with asters. Crocosmia, can seem to cope with anything. And the other thing about these perennials is that there are so many to choose from. A few other named varieties to chose from are, ‘Jupiter', 'Emily McKenzie' and 'Star of the East' which has curled petals in burnt umber, or the clear tangerine of 'Pianchon'. Beware slightly though as some varieties will try to take over the garden. You can prevent this by growing them in large pots or tubs. To increase your stock is also easy, just dig up a clump and split them in spring or autumn

Japanese Anemones

For that late summer show there's not a lot that can rival the Japanese anemones. Upright and elegant. On stiff, wiry stems, sculpted leaves, simple flowers, late flowering and long lasting. It's easy to see why they're such a favourite with people at this time of the year. We grow around ten varieties in our garden. They come in pink and white, touched with subtle shades. Some are simple singles, others have masses of narrow petals. Most popular is 'Honorine Jobert', 4ft. tall, with single, pure white flowers with a pinkish blush. Next is one I really like, 'Prinz Heinrich'! in deep rose. This one’s been around since the last century, but I think it’s still one of the best. 'Lady Gilmour' is more demure, with semi‑double flowers that are pale to mid pink with up to 12 small ruched petals. 'Konigin Charlotte' has large, semi­ double flowers up to 4in. wide in pale to mid pink. If you want delicate pale to mid pink flowers and a mass of tiny petals, then go for 'September Charm'. for something different try 'Whirlwind' with white semi‑double flowers and petals that are green‑tinged and twisted. Japanese anemones blend well in borders with all the late‑flowering plants. In their native habitat they flourish in damp, open woodland in full sunshine or dappled shade. Dig in plenty of well‑rotted organic matter if you can to create a deep, moist, fertile, well drained soil. Good drainage is vital as they hate being wet in winter. Although growth is good in dappled or partial shade they're at their best in the garden in full sun. They don’t need a lot of looking after. Make sure they get a good drink when it’s hot. Pests and diseases rarely cause them problems, although snails sometimes have a go at them. You can propagate by division in late autumn or winter, or as the plants start growing in early spring. Push two border forks back to back into the centre of a lifted clump and prise it apart. Replant the new divisions. Clumps usually establish rapidly. If they get really congested you can be brutal. Chop them into segments with a spade. Japanese anemones can become a bit invasive, but simply if their in the way just chop them down to keep them in check. They don't like dry soil. Keep them moist until they are well established and boost root growth with a sprinkling of bonemeal. They can also be grown in large containers. In early spring give a balanced fertiliser, Around July I give mine a good dose of tomato food and make sure the compost surface doesn’t dry out. They usually bloom from late August to October, but recently because of the strange weather we have been having I have had them in flower in late July.

Companian Plants

A-Y list of Companian Plants

ALFALFA: Perennial that roots deeply. Fixes the soil with nitrogen, accumulates iron, magnesium, phosphorous and potassium. Withstands droughts with it's long taproot and can improve just about any soil! Alfalfa has the ability to break up hard clay soil and can even send its' roots through rocks! Now that is a tenacious plant! Alfalfa is practically pest and disease free. It needs only natural rainfall to survive.

AMARANTH: A tropical annual that needs hot conditions to flourish. Good with sweet corn, it's leaves provide shade giving the corm a rich, moist root run. Host to predatory ground beetles. Eat the young leaves in salads.

ANISE: Licorice flavoured herb, good host for predatory wasps which prey on aphids and it is also said to repel aphids. Deters pests from brassicas by camouflaging their odour. Improves the vigor of any plants growing near it. Used in ointments to protect against bug stings and bites. Good to plant with coriander.

ARTEMISIAS: See Wormwood

BASIL: Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavour. Basil can be helpful in repelling thrips. It is said to repel flies and mosquitoes. Do not plant near rue.

BAY LEAF: A fresh leaf bay leaf in each storage container of beans or grains will deter weevils and moths. Sprinkle dried leaves with other deterrent herbs in garden as natural insecticide dust. A good combo: Bay leaves, cayenne pepper, tansy and peppermint.
For ladybug invasions try spreading bay leaves around in your house anywhere they are getting in and they should leave.

BEANS: All bean enrich the soil with nitrogen fixed form the air. In general they are good company for carrots, celery, chards, corn, eggplant, peas, potatoes, brassicas, beets, radish, strawberry and cucumbers. Great for heavy nitrogen users like corn and grain plants. French Haricot beans, sweet corn and melons are a good combo. Summer savory deters bean beetles and improves growth and flavour. Keep beans away from the alliums.

BEE BALM (Oswego, Monarda): Plant with tomatoes to improve growth and flavour. Great for attracting beneficials and bees of course. Pretty perennial that tends to get powdery mildew.

BEET: Good for adding minerals to the soil. The leaves are composed of 25% magnesium making them a valuable addition to the compost pile if you don't care to eat them. Companions are lettuce, kohlrabi, onions and brassicas. Garlic improves growth and flavor. They are also beneficial to beans with the exception of runner beans. Runner or pole beans and beets stunt each other's growth.

BORAGE: Companion plant for tomatoes, squash, strawberries and most plants. Deters tomato hornworms and cabbage worms. One of the best bee and wasp attracting plants. Adds trace minerals to the soil and a good addition the compost pile. The leaves contain vitamin C and are rich in calcium, potassium and mineral salts. Borage may benefit any plant it is growing next to via increasing resistance to pests and disease. It also makes a nice mulch for most plants. Borage and strawberries help each other and strawberry farmers always set a few plants in their beds to enhance the fruits flavor and yield. Plant near tomatoes to improve growth and disease resistance. After you have planned this annual once it will self seed. Borage flowers are edible.

BRASSICA: Benefit from chamomile, peppermint, dill, sage, and rosemary. They need rich soil with plenty of lime to flourish.

BUCKWHEAT: Accumulates calcium and can be grown as an excellent cover crop. Attracts hoverflies in droves. (Member of the brassica family.)

CABBAGE: Celery, dill, onions and potatoes are good companion plants. They do not get along with strawberries, tomatoes and pole beans.

CARAWAY: Good for loosening compacted soil with it's deep roots so it's also compatible next to shallow rooted crops. Tricky to establish. The flowers attract a number of beneficial insects especially the tiny parasitic wasps. Keep it away from dill and fennel.

CARROTS: Their pals are leaf lettuce, radish, onions and tomatoes. Plant dill away from carrots.

CATNIP: Deters flea beetles, aphids, Japanese beetles, squash bugs, ants and weevils. We have found it repels mice quite well: mice were wreaking havoc in our outbuildings, we spread sprigs of mint throughout and the mice split! Use sprigs of mint anywhere in the house you want deter mice and ants. Smells good and very safe.

CELERY: Companions: Bean, cabbage family, leek, onion, spinach and tomato. Foe: Corn.

CHAMOMILE, GERMAN: Annual. Improves flavour of cabbages, cucumbers and onions. Host to hoverflies and wasps. Accumulates calcium, potassium and sulphur, later returning them to the soil. Increases oil production from herbs. Leave some flowers unpicked and German chamomile will reseed itself. Roman chamomile is a low growing perennial that will tolerate almost any soil conditions. Both like full sun. Growing chamomile of any type is considered a tonic for anything you grow in the garden.

CHARDS: Companions: Bean, cabbage family and onion.

CHERVIL: Companion to radishes for improved growth and flavour. Keeps aphids off lettuce. Said to deter slugs. Likes shade.

CHIVES: Improves growth and flavour of carrots and tomatoes. Keeps aphids help to keep aphids away from tomatoes, mums and sunflowers. Chives may drive away Japanese beetles and carrot rust fly. Planted among apple trees it helps prevent scab and among roses it prevents black spot. You will need patience as it takes about 3 years for plantings of chives to prevent the 2 diseases. A tea of chives may be used on cucumbers and gooseberries to prevent downy and powdery mildews. See chive tea on disease page.

CHRYSANTHEMUMS: C. coccineum kills root nematodes. (the bad ones) It's flowers along with those of C. cineraruaefolium have been used as botanical pesticides for centuries. (i.e. pyrethrum) White flowering chrysanthemums repel Japanese beetles. To the right is a picture of the painted daisy from which pyrethrum is extracted.

CLOVER: Long used as a green manure and plant companion. Attracts many beneficials. Useful planted around apple trees to attract predators of the woolly aphid.

COMFREY: Accumulates calcium, phosphorous and potassium. Likes wet spots to grow in. Traditional medicinal plant. Good trap crop for slugs.

CORIANDER: Repels aphids, spider mites and potato beetle. A tea from this can be used as a spray for spider mites. A partner for anise.

CORN: Amaranth, beans, cucumber, white geranium, lamb's quarters, melons, morning glory, parsley, peanuts, peas, potato, pumpkin, soybeans, squash and sunflower. A classic example is to grow climbing beans up corn while inter-planting pumpkins. The corn provides a natural trellis for the beans, pumpkins smother the weeds and helps corn roots retain moisture. The beans fix nitrogen from air into the soil. Another interesting helper for corn is the weed Pig's Thistle which raises nutrients from the subsoil to where the corn can reach them.. Keep corn away from celery and tomato plants.

COSTMARY: This 2-3 foot tall perennial of the chrysanthemum family helps to repel moths.

CUCUMBERS: Cucumbers are great to plant with corn and beans. The three plants like the same conditions warmth, rich soil and plenty of moisture. Let the cucumbers grow up and over your corn plants. A great duet is to plant cukes with sunflowers. The sunflowers provide a strong support for the vines. Cukes also do well with peas, beets and carrots. Dill planted with cucumbers by attracting beneficial predators. Nasturtium improves growth and flavour. Keep sage away from cukes.

DAHLIAS: These beautiful, tuberous annuals that can have up to dinner plate size flowers repels nematodes!

DILL: Improves growth and health of cabbage. Do not plant near carrots or caraway. Best friend for lettuce. Attracts hoverflies and predatory wasps. Repels aphids and spider mites to some degree. Also may repel the dreaded squash bug! (scatter some good size dill leaves on plants that are suspect to squash bugs, like squash plants, yeah that's the ticket.) Dill goes well with onions, cabbage, sweet corn and cucumbers. Dill does attract the tomato horn worm so it would be useful to plant it somewhere away from your tomato plants to keep the destructive horn worm away from them. We like to plant it for the swallowtail butterfly caterpillars to feed on. Even their caterpillars are beautiful.

ELDERBERRY: A spray (see insect treatments) made from the leaves can be used against aphids, carrot root fly, cuke beetles and peach tree borers. Put branches and leaves in mole runs to banish them. Yes, it works!

FLAX: Plant with carrots, and potatoes. Flax contains tannin and linseed oils which may offend the Colorado potato bug. Flax is an annual from 1-4 feet tall with blue or white flowers that readily self sows.

FOUR-O'CLOCKS: Draw Japanese beetles like a magnet which then dine on the foliage. The foliage is pure poison to them and they won't live to have dessert! It is important to mention that Four O'clock are also poisonous to humans. Please be careful where you plant them if you have children. They are a beautiful annual plant growing from 2-3 feet high with a bushy growth form.

GARLIC: Plant near roses to repel aphids. Accumulates sulfur: a naturally occurring fungicide which will help in the garden with disease prevention. Garlic is systemic in action as it is taken up the plants through their pores and when used as a soil drench is also taken up by the roots. Has value in offending codling moths, Japanese beetles, root maggots, snails, and carrot root fly. Researchers have observed that time-released garlic capsules planted at the bases of fruit trees actually kept deer away! Hey, worth a try! Concentrated garlic sprays have been observed to repel and kill whiteflies, aphids and fungus gnats among others with as little as a 6-8% concentration! It is safe for use on orchids too. Try concentrated Garlic Barrier Insect Repellent!

GERANIUM: Repels cabbage worms and Japanese beetles, plant around grapes, roses, corn, and cabbage.

GOPHER PURGE: Deters gophers, and moles.

GRAPES: Hyssop is beneficial to grapes as are beans, peas, or blackberries. Keep radishes and cabbage away from grapes. Planting clover increases the soil fertility for grapes. Chives with grapes help repel aphids. Plant your vines under Elm or Mulberry trees!

HORSERADISH: Plant in containers in the potato patch to keep away Colorado potato bugs. There are some very effective insect sprays that can be made with the root. Use the bottomless pot method to keep horseradish contained. Also repels Blister beetles. We have observed that the root can yield anti-fungal properties when a tea is made from it. (See: Horseradish: Disease)

HOREHOUND: (Marrubium Vulgare) like many varieties in the mint family, the many tiny flowers attract Braconid and Icheumonid wasps, and Tachnid and Syrid flies. The larval forms of these insects parasitize or otherwise consume many other insects pests. It grows where many others fail to thrive and can survive harsh winters. Blooms over a long season, attracting beneficial insects almost as long as you are likely to need them. For best results use horehound directly as a companion plant. Stimulates and aids fruiting in tomatoes and peppers.

HYSSOP: Companion plant to cabbage and grapes, deters cabbage moths and flea beetles. Do not plant near radishes. Hyssop may be the number one preference among bees and some beekeepers rub the hive with it to encourage the bees to keep to their home. It is not as invasive as other members of the mint family making it safer for inter planting.

KELP: When used in a powder mixture or tea as a spray, this versatile sea herb will not only repel insects but feed the vegetables. In particular we have observed that kelp foliar sprays keep aphids and Japanese beetles away when used as a spray every 8 days before and during infestation times. If you have access to seaweed, use it as a mulch to keep slugs away.

LAMIUM: This will repel potato bugs- a big problem for many gardeners!

LARKSPUR: An annual member of the Delphinium family, larkspur will attract Japanese beetles. They dine and die! Larkspur is poisonous to humans too!

LAVENDER: Repels fleas and moths. Prolific flowering lavender nourishes many nectar feeding and beneficial insects. Use dried sprigs of lavender to repel moths. Start plants in winter from cuttings, setting out in spring.

LEEKS: Use leeks near carrots, celery and onions which will improve their growth. Leeks also repel carrot flies.

LEMON BALM: Sprinkle throughout the garden in an herbal powder mixture to deter many bugs. Lemon balm has citronella compounds that make this work: crush and rub the leaves on your skin to keep mosquitoes away! Use to ward off squash bugs!

LOVAGE: Improves flavour and health of most plants. Good habitat for ground beetles. A large plant, use one planted as a backdrop. Similar to celery in flavour.

MARIGOLDS: (Calendula): Given a lot of credit as a pest deterrent. Keeps soil free of bad nematodes; supposed to discourage many insects. Plant freely throughout the garden. The marigolds you choose must be a scented variety for them to work. One down side is that marigolds do attract spider mites and slugs.
French Marigold (T. patula) has roots that exude a substance which spreads in their immediate vicinity killing nematodes. For nematode control you want to plant dense areas of them. There have been some studies done that proved this nematode killing effect lasted for several years after the plants were These marigolds also help to deter whiteflies when planted around tomatoes and can be used in greenhouses for the same purpose. Whiteflies hate the smell of marigolds.

Mexican marigold (T. minuta) is the most powerful of the insect repelling marigolds and may also overwhelm weed roots such as bind weed! It is said to repel the Mexican bean beetle and wild bunnies! Be careful it can have an herbicidal effect on some plants like beans and cabbage.

MARJORAM: As a companion plant it improves the flavor of vegetables and herbs. Sweet marjoram is the most commonly grown type.

MELONS: Companions: Corn, pumpkin, radish and squash. Other suggested helpers for melons are as follows: Marigold deters beetles, nasturtium deters bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.

MINT: Deters white cabbage moths, ants, rodents, flea beetles, fleas, aphids and improves the health of cabbage and tomatoes. Use cuttings as a mulch around members of the brassica family. It attracts hoverflies and predatory wasps. Earthworms are quite attracted to mint plantings. Be careful where you plant it as mint is an incredibly invasive perennial. We have found that placing mint (fresh or dried) where mice are a problem is very effective in driving them off!

MOLE PLANTS: (castor bean plant) Deter moles and mice if planted here and there throughout the garden. Drop a seed of this in mole runs to drive them away. This is a poisonous plant. See Moles: Critter Trouble

MORNING GLORIES: They attract hoverflies. Plus if you want a fast growing annual vine to cover something up morning glory is an excellent choice.

NASTURTIUMS: Plant as a barrier around tomatoes, radishes, cabbage, cucumbers, and under fruit trees. Deters wooly aphids, whiteflies, squash bug, cucumber beetles and other pests of the cucurbit family. Great trap crop for aphids (in particular the black aphids) which it does attract, especially the yellow flowering varieties. Likes poor soil with low moisture and no fertilizer. It has been the practice of some fruit growers that planting nasturtiums every year in the root zone of fruit trees allow the trees to take up the pungent odor of the plants and repel bugs. Studies say it is among the best at attracting predatory insects. It has no taste effect on the fruit. A nice variety to grow is Alaska which has attractive green and white variegated leaves. The leaves, flowers and seeds are all edible and wonderful in salads!
Try our recipe for: Nasturtium Salad

NETTLES, STINGING: The flowers attract bees. Sprays made from these are rich in silica and calcium. Invigorating for plants and improves their disease resistance. Leaving the mixture to rot, it then makes an excellent liquid feed. Comfrey improves the liquid feed even more. Hairs on the nettles' leaves contain formic acid which 'stings' you.

ONIONS: Planting chamomile and summer savory with onions improves their flavour. Other companions are carrot, leek, beets, kohlrabi, strawberries, brassicas, dill, lettuce and tomatoes. Intercropping onions and leeks with your carrots confuses the carrot and onion flies! Onions planted with strawberries help the berries fight disease. Keep onions away from peas.

OPAL BASIL: An annual herb that is pretty, tasty and said to repel hornworms!

OREGANO: Can be used with most crops but especially good for cabbage. Plant near broccoli, cabbage and cauliflower to repel cabbage butterfly and near cucumbers to repel cucumber beetle. Also benefits grapes.

PARSLEY: Allies: Asparagus, carrot, chives, onions, roses and tomato. Sprinkle the leaves on tomatoes, and asparagus. Use as a tea to ward off asparagus beetles. Attracts hoverflies. Let some go to seed to attract the tiny parasitic wasps and hoverflies. Parsley increases the fragrance of roses when planted around their base. Rose problems? See: Rose Rx for answers. Mint and parsley are enemies. Keep them well away from one another.

PEAS: Peas fix nitrogen in the soil. Plant next to corn and they will provide extra nitrogen. Corn is a heavy feeder so this is a great combination! Companions for peas are bush beans, Pole Beans, Carrots, Celery, Chicory, Corn Cucumber, Eggplant, Parsley, Early Potato, Radish, Spinach, Strawberry, Sweet pepper and Turnips. Do not plant peas with onions.

PEPPERMINT: Repels white cabbage moths, aphids and flea beetles. It is the menthol content in mints that acts as an insect repellant. Bees and other good guys love it.

PEPPERS, BELL (Sweet Peppers): Plant peppers near tomatoes, parsley, basil, and carrots. Onions make an excellent companion plant for peppers. They do quite well with okra as it shelters them and protects the brittle stems from wind. Don't plant them near fennel or kohlrabi. They should also not be grown near apricot trees because a fungus that the pepper is prone to can cause a lot of harm to the apricot tree. Peppers can double as ornamentals, so tuck some into flowerbeds and borders. Harvesting tip: The traditional bell pepper, for example, is harvested green, even though most varieties will mature red, orange, or yellow. Peppers can be harvested at any stage of growth, but their flavor doesn't fully develop until maturity.

PEPPERS, HOT: Chili peppers have root exudates that prevent root rot and other Fusarium diseases. Plant anywhere you have these problems. Teas made from hot peppers can be useful as insect sprays. Hot peppers like to be grouped with cucumbers, eggplant, escarole, tomato, okra, Swiss chard and squash. Herbs to plant near them include: basils, oregano, parsley and rosemary

PENNYROYAL: Repels fleas. The leaves when crushed and rubbed onto your skin will repel chiggers, flies, gnats, mosquitoes and ticks. Warning: Pennyroyal is highly toxic to cats. It should not be planted where cats might ingest it and never rubbed onto their skin.

PETUNIAS: They repel the asparagus beetle, leafhoppers, certain aphids, tomato worms, Mexican bean beetles and general garden pests. A good companion to tomatoes, but plant everywhere. The leaves can be used in a tea to make a potent bug spray.

POACHED EGG PLANT: Grow poached egg plant with tomatoes, they will attract hover flies and hover flies eat aphids.

POTATO: Companions for potatoes are bush bean, members of the cabbage family, carrot, celery, corn, dead nettle, flax, horseradish, marigold, peas, petunia, onion and Tagetes marigold. Protect them from scab by putting comfrey leaves in with your potato sets at planting time. Horseradish, planted at the corners of the potato patch, provides general protection. Don't plant these around potatoes: cucumber, kohlrabi, parsnip, pumpkin, rutabaga, squash family, sunflower, turnip and fennel. Keep potatoes and tomatoes apart as they both can get early and late blight contaminating each other.

PUMPKINS: Pumpkin pals are corn, melon and squash. Marigold deters beetles. Nasturtium deters bugs, beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.

PURSLANE: This edible weed makes good ground cover in the corn patch. Use the stems, leaves and seeds in stir-frys. Pickle the green seed pod for caper substitutes. If purslane is growing in your garden it means you have healthy, fertile soil!

RADISH: Companions for radishes are: radish beet, bush beans, pole beans, carrots, chervil, cucumber, lettuce, melons, nasturtium, parsnip, peas, spinach and members of the squash family. Why plant radishes with your squash plants? Radishes may protect them from squash borers! Anything that will help keep them away is worth a try. Chervil and nasturtium improve growth and flavour. Planting them around corn and letting them go to seed will also help fight corn borers. Chinese Daikon and Snow Belle radishes are favorites of flea beetles. Plant these at 6 to 12 inch intervals broccoli. In one trial, this measurably reduced damage to broccoli. Keep radishes away from hyssop plants, cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts and turnips. Planting an early row of radishes may lure flea beetles away from susceptible plants. For some good eating radishes try our delicious Purple Plum Radishes

RHUBARB: A good companion to all brassicas. Try planting cabbage and broccoli plants your rhubarb patch watch them thrive. Rhubarb protects beans against black fly. Some other interesting companions for rhubarb are the beautiful columbine flowers, garlic, onion and roses! It helps deter red spider mites from the columbines. A spray made from boiled rhubarb leaves, which contain the poison oxalic acid may be used to prevent blackspot on roses and as an aphicide.

ROSEMARY: Companion plant to cabbage, beans, carrots and sage. Deters cabbage moths, bean beetles, and carrot flies. Use cuttings to place by the crowns of carrots for carrot flies. Zones 6 and colder can overwinter rosemary as house plants or take cuttings.

RUE: Deters aphids, fish moths, flea beetle, onion maggot, slugs, snails, flies and Japanese beetles in roses and raspberries. Companions for rue are roses, fruits (in particular figs), raspberries and lavender. To make it even more effective with Japanese beetles: crush a few leaves to release the smell. Has helped repel cats for us. You should not plant rue near cucumbers, cabbage, basil or sage. A pretty perennial with bluish-gray leaves. May be grown indoors in a sunny window. Rue may cause skin irritation in some individuals. Remedy: See cats and dogs: Rue spray.

RYE: An excellent use of plant allelopathy is the use of mow-killed grain rye as a mulch. The allelochemicals that leach from the rye residue prevent weed germination but do not harm transplanted tomatoes, broccoli, or many other vegetables.

SAGE: Use as a companion plant with broccoli, cauliflower, rosemary, cabbage, and carrots to deter cabbage moths, beetles, black flea beetles and carrot flies. Do not plant near cucumbers, onions or rue. Sage repels cabbage moths and black flea beetles. Allowing sage to flower will also attract many beneficial insects and the flowers are pretty. There are some very striking varieties of sage with variegated foliage that can be used for their ornamental as well as practical qualities. More on sage.

SOUTHERNWOOD: Plant with cabbage, and here and there in the garden. Wonderful lemony scent when crushed or brushed in passing. Roots easily from cuttings. Does not like fertilizer! It is a perennial that can get quite bushy. We have started to cut it back every spring and it comes back in not time. A delightful plant that is virtually pest free.

SOYBEANS: They add nitrogen to the soil making them a good companion to corn. They repel chinch bugs and Japanese beetles. Soybeans are so good for you! They are many ways to prepare them.

SQUASH: Companions: Corn, cucumbers, icicle radishes, melon and pumpkin. Helpers: Borage deters worms, improves growth and flavour. Marigolds deters beetle. Nasturtium deters squash bugs and beetles. Oregano provides general pest protection.

STRAWBERRY: Friends are beans, borage, lettuce, onions, spinach and thyme. Foes: Cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, cauliflower and kohlrabi. Allies: Borage strengthens resistance to insects and disease. Thyme, as a border, deters worms.

SUMMER SAVORY: Plant with beans and onions to improve growth and flavor. Discourages cabbage moths, Mexican bean beetles and black aphids. Honey bees love it.

SUNFLOWERS: Planting sunflowers with corn is said by some to increase the yield. Aphids a problem? Definitely plant a few sunflowers here and there in the garden. Step back and watch the ants herd the aphids onto them! We have been doing this for years and it is remarkable. The sunflowers are so tough that the aphids cause very little damage and we have nice seed heads for our birds to enjoy! Talk about a symbiotic relationship!

SWEET ALYSSUM: Direct seed or set out starts of sweet alyssum near plants that have been attacked by aphids in the past. Alyssum flowers attract hoverflies whose larva devour aphids. Another plus is their blooms draw bees to pollinate early blooming fruit trees. They will reseed freely and make a beautiful groundcover every year.

TANSY: Plant with fruit trees, roses and raspberries keeping in mind that it can be invasive and is not the most attractive of plants. Tansy which is often recommended as an ant repellant may only work on sugar type ants. These are the ones that you see on peonies and marching into the kitchen. At least for us placing tansy clippings by the greenhouse door has kept them out. Deters flying insects, Japanese beetles, striped cucumber beetles, squash bugs, ants and mice! Tie up and hang a bunch of tansy leaves indoors as a fly repellent. Use clippings as a mulch as needed. Don't be afraid to cut the plant up as tansy will bounce back from any abuse heaped on it! It is also a helpful addition to the compost pile with its' high potassium content.
Tansy Warning: You do not want to plant Tansy anywhere that livestock can feed on it as it is toxic to many animals. Do not let it go to seed either as it may germinate in livestock fields.

TARRAGON: Plant throughout the garden, not many pests like this one. Recommended to enhance growth and flavour of vegetables.

THYME: Deters cabbage worms. Wooly thyme makes a wonderful groundcover. You may want to use the upright form of thyme in the garden rather than the groundcover types. Thyme is easy to grow from seeds or cuttings. Older woody plants should be divided in spring.

TOMATOES: Tomato allies are many: asparagus, basil, bean, carrots, celery, chive, cucumber, garlic, head lettuce, marigold, mint, nasturtium, onion, parsley, pepper, marigold, pot marigold and sow thistle. Basil repels flies and mosquitoes, improves growth and flavour. Bee balm, chives and mint improve health and flavour. Borage deters tomato worm, improves growth and flavour. Dill, until mature, improves growth and health, mature dill retards tomato growth. Enemies: corn and tomato are attacked by the same worm. Kohlrabi stunts tomato growth. Keep potatoes and tomatoes apart as they both can get early and late blight contaminating each other. Keep cabbage and cauliflower away from them. Don't plant them under walnut trees as they will get walnut wilt, is a disease of tomatoes growing underneath walnut trees.

WHITE GERANIUMS: These members of the pelargonum family draw Japanese beetles to feast on the foliage which in turn kills them.

WORMWOOD: Keeps animals out of the garden when planted as a border. An excellent deterrent to most insects. A tea made from wormwood will repel cabbage moths, slugs, snails, black flea beetles and fleas effectively. The two best varieties for making insect spray are Silver King and Powis Castle. Adversely Powis castle attracts ladybugs which in turn breed directly on the plant. Silver Mound is great as a border plant and the most toxic wormwood. Note: As wormwood actually produces a botanical poison do not use it directly on food crops. For insect spray: See wormwood spray

YARROW: Yarrow has insect repelling qualities and is an excellent natural fertilizer. A handful of yarrow leaves added to the compost pile really speeds things up. Try it! It also attracts predatory wasps and ladybugs to name just two. It may increase the essential oil content of herbs when planted among them. Yarrow has so many wonderful properties to it and is an ingredient in our own Golden Harvest Fertilizer.