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A little bit about
 Gardening Bits and Bobs. Little bits of garden trivia I have come across that might be of interest. |
A little bit about the Crown Imperial
 The crown imperial, Fritillaria imperialis, arrived in Britain from Turkey in about 1580. Its name implies a noble bearing, and indeed it grew in the Imperial Gardens of Vienna, the palace
of the Holy Roman Emperor. Some praised the flower’s beauty but others disliked it, not at least for its smell. The corms smell strongly of fox and it acquired the name of Stink Lily. There is a legend attached to the crown imperial’s flowers; the way it appears to hang its head in shame is said to have derived from the bold way the flower originally stared at Christ on his way to the Crucifixion.
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Grape Hyacinth
 The trouble with grape hyacinth’s (Muscari) is that they seed themselves everywhere, but this doesn’t detract from the fact they make a good plant for the spring garden. But now you can buy a species that behaves itself in the borders, namely Muscari Latifolium. It will seed around the garden a little, but nowhere near as much as the other Muscari species. It is a beautiful plant with grey-green leaves and a spike about 15-30cm (6-12in) tall of the typical grape hyacinth flower. It also differs from the others as it has flowers that are navy blue shading to pale blue on the top of the spike. They are shown at their best when grown against grey or silver leaved plants or red leaved such as Bergenia |
A little bit about Wallflowers.
 This year a lot of you have filled flower borders and containers with members of the cabbage family. But these aren't tasty, leafy green 'Savoys', or even ornamental cabbages in shades of purple, green and white. Instead, these are colourful, hardy wallflowers, members of the cruciferae family that produce spikes smothered in yellow, orange, red, dusky pink, white or mauve blooms from mid spring to early summer. And many are sweetly scented. In the autumn and early winter, bundles of bare rooted Erysimum plants (also known as cheiranthus) used to be sold at every corner shop (when there was such a thing!), and they're still sold at garden centres. Most are varieties of E. cheiri or E. x allonii and hybrids. They're tough as old boots, very dependable and easy to grow - and buying plants like this to pop into a tub or in bold groups in the flower borders is very convenient. But, unless you're lucky, you probably won't know what colour flowers you're going to get until the blooms open. Wallflowers are thought to have earned their name from their habit of growing just about anywhere, including cracks and crevices in old walls, where they flourish in the limy conditions. Before they were all embraced under the genus Erysimum, some wallflowers used to be classified as Cheiranthus. This is a Greek term meaning hand flower, referring to the use of the colourful and sometimes fragrant blooms in bouquets. |
A Little Bit About The Laburnum
 THE LABURNUM makes such a lovely blaze of colour in late spring. Its long, hanging racemes of bright yellow pea Rowers have earned it the names of golden chain tree and golden rain tree. It can make an excellent tree for a small garden, being easy to train and shape and being tolerant of a wide range of growing conditions, as long as the soil isn't waterlogged. It is not a tree for every garden however, as all parts are poisonous and it is probably best avoided in gardens where small children are free to play. The common laburnum, L. anagyroides, (see photo) blooms in May, and there is also a weeping form L. alpinum 'Pendulum', which is ideal for smaller gardens being slow-growing and reaching only l0ft. (3m) in height. Perhaps the most attractive of all is the slightly larger L. x watereri 'Vossii', which has richly coloured chrome-yellow flowers and glossy green foliage. |
Rudbeckias
 An invaluable plant for late summer colour. The rudbeckia has gained popularity over the last few years. Its common name of black-eyed susan comes from the raised, pointed and usually dark centre of the flower. Their colours range through yellow to orange with dark brown or mahogany. One of the recent additions to the range has been bred from Redbeckia amplexicaulis. This has flowers like Mexican Hats, with big domed centres and bright yellow ray florets which turn blood red at their base. Rudbeckia’s seldom produced their first flowers before late June, but if fed regularly, and dead headed they will continue to give a good display right through the summer. Water well in dry spells, and support tall varieties with canes or hoop supports. Plant in a sunny well drained soil. Cut down to ground level in autumn and mulch well in spring. Some varieties to look out for are ‘Autumn Leaves, Indian Summer, Marmalade and Becky’. For the more unusual try ‘Green Eyes’ which has orange-yellow blooms with a deep green cone. A new one to come on the market recently is ‘Cherokee Sunset’ which is a double with a mixture of colours |
Heathers
 There are three main types of heathers. Erica’s, callunas and daboecias, with a huge number of species and varieties. The main drawback is their requirement for a lime-free soil. If you garden on chalk or limestone, the plants will either struggle to survive or die altogether. Even a clay soil may be too limey for some heathers, so It may pay you to carry out a pH test before planting heathers, but if you don't have unsuitable soil, or don't want to devote the whole garden to summer flowering heather’s, then try growing them in a container. You can then grow them in ericaceous compost where they will provide you with mid to late summer colour, which can be useful if your pots and hanging baskets of annuals are beginning to flop. Shallow containers are ideal, as these plants are not deep-rooted so filling a tall pot would be a waste of compost. There is plenty of choice available and colours. White flowered Erica tetralix 'Alba Mollis'; Calluna vulgaris 'Darkness' with rich pink-mauve flowers; Erica cinerea 'Katinka'; Calluna v. 'Golden Carpet' with yellowish, red-tinged foliage; and Calluna v. 'Firefly' with rich, gold leaves and bright pink flowers are only a few of the ones available. Plant them first with a layer of stones in the pot for good drainage, and then a top-up with ericaceous potting compost. Plants should be evenly spaced -four set around the edge of a 6in. pot with one at the centre is ideal and compost filled in between them and firm in well. |
A little bit about the Red and White Rose
 The white rose, Rosa x alba, may have been a native of France, but it has been cultivated for so long here that no one is quite sure. Its development as a royal emblem began with Eleanor of Provence, who married Henry III in 1236 and took the white rose as her emblem. Later, her son Edward I continued to use this flower, although he upped the stakes and made it into a gold rose. Eleanor’s second son Edmund became 1st Earl of Lancaster in 1275 and he brought from
Provence his own red rose emblem, based on Rosa Gallica var.officinalis. Much later these two roses, with their opposing dynasties, became the warrior symbols of the Wars of the Roses, which ended in 1485 when Elizabeth of York (The white rose) married Henry VII (The red rose), and the two combined to create the emblematic Tudor rose. |
A little bit about the Iris
 The Iris was named after a beautiful goddess that is said to have visited the earth and crossed a shimmering rainbow bridge bearing divine messages to human kind. It is said also she has left a special message in the shape of early flowering forms of the family of plants she gives her name to. Irises open their richly coloured blooms through the cold of January, giving a hint that spring is just around the corner. The most common one has a horrible name, Iris unguicularis, but it has primrose-scented flowers of violet-blue that blooms from October until March in a sheltered spot. Iris stylosa grows from a rhizome which appreciates a good, dry summer baking. Its flowers nestle in the tangle of leaves which you should trim in autumn to show off the emerging blooms. The species itself Is well worth growing but also look out for Iris unguicularis 'Alba', a white form, or the deep violet 'Mary Barnard'. 'Walter Butt' is a delicate pale violet with an beautiful scent. The flowers grow in a clump 12in. across. The small bulbous Iris reticuiata also emerge now alongside snowdrops. The small flowers of the Iris reticulata family may look fragile, but they come from tough stock, originating in the mountains of central Asia, Turkey, Iran and Iraq. There are named varieties of Iris reticulata such as 'Joyce' (blue) 'Harmony' (clear blue) and 'George' (large purple flowers). Iris histroides and its varieties, such as 'Angel's Eye', 'Lady Beatrice Stanley' and 'Major', will withstand all weathers as will the yellow-flowered Iris winogradowii. Iris danfordiae, is one of the earliest to flower with yellow apricot flowers and green freckles and a beautiful scent. But you must plant it deeply. Iris bakeriana and Iris hyrcana are small plants, no more than 6in. tall, and do better with a bit of protection. It's best to plant all iris in a sheltered spot such as together in a rockery, a trough or a raised bed. |
Ornamental Grasses
 Small and colourful grasses like Carex oshimensis, 'Evergold' can be planted at the edges of borders or in containers. They are often used in winter and spring containers, but also look good in pots and hanging baskets, mixed with summer bedding plants. Large ornamental grasses, such as Arundo donax and Miscanthus sinensis are perfect for adding a tropical feel to gardens where they look good when teamed up with large-leaved plants. Tall grasses also make a good screen, either around the edge of the garden or to divide it internally into separate sections. Grasses which grow to around 3ft. tall, such as Pennisetum orientale, are great for an herbaceous border where they'll provide masses of foliage which helps to fill gaps and link all the plants in the bed. Ornamental grasses can be planted now and are available in pots from garden centres and DIY stores. They do well on light, free-drained soil, but will benefit if the soil is improved with some well rotted garden compost before planting. If you already have ornamental grasses in your garden, old stems can he cut back now, if you haven't already done it. Avoid damaging any new shoots emerging at the base of the plants. Use sharp scissors or secateurs to cut out old stems, but beware! Wear gloves as the foliage of some of them can be sharp enough to cut you. |
Clematis
 Clematis are wonderful climbers, and keep going from late winter right through to autumn. You can get the early-flowering montanas, just after Clematis armandii and Clematis cirrhosa have brightened some of the darkest days. Then come the large-flowered varieties through the days of summer. A few will stay in bloom until September, but then come the late flowering species and varieties. There's 'Bill MacKenzie', which flowers into November, with large yellow blooms and fluffy seed heads, and the white scented star shaped flowers of Clematis flammula. One beauty with the unfortunate name of Clematis x tritemata 'Rubromarginata is one to go for, with masses of tiny, scented deep pink and white stars over a 15ft. wide radius, it will brighten the dullest area. Clematis texensis is another late arrival, lowish-growing with pink pitcher shaped flowers and cream stamens. It also has named varieties including 'Etoile Rose' ,cerise and silver, the pink 'Duchess of Albany', and red 'Gravetye Beauty'. One of my favourites is the deep mauve Clematis viticella and its cultivars like 'Etoile Voilette'. I have one that covers the pergola at the bottom of the garden. I think also it is the easiest of clematis to grow. They're not too fussy where they grow, and they don't seem to suffer from wilt, come in a good range of colours and you can prune them hard or light. They will give you flowers from June to late September. Flowering at this time of the year are Clematis v. 'Alba Luxurians', smothered in green-tinged white flowers and Clematis v. 'Purpurea Plena Elegans' with fluffy double violet purple flowers. Others to look for include 'Madame Julia Correvon',(deep velvety purple-red), 'Polish Spirit' (purple-blue) and 'Little Nell' (bluishwhite bell-flowers). If you live in the Essex or East London area, the best person to see, is to take a trip out to Sheila Chapmans Clematis nursery at Abridge. It’s next to Crowthers garden centre on the road to Stapleford airport. Sheila’s always ready to share her vast knowledge on the subject and you wont pay a fortune for her plants. |
Toad Lilies
 Some gardeners love them while some hate them, Some consider them jewels of the garden, while others think they are grotesque. I myself can’t say I am too fond of them. I'm talking about tricyrtis, or as you will probably know them as toad lilies. This name is given them on account of the wart-like spots dotted across the petals. When viewed close up, the flower is rather like a passion flower, but the two plants could not be further apart in terms of their botanical make up. Toad lilies are related to true titles, and grow from underground rhizomes. they are perhaps best suited to growing in pots and containers. In the garden they'll need plenty of staking, otherwise they are likely to flop over. Probably the most common one seen is Tricyrtis formosana, which is more upright than most , and grows up to 3ft. The flowers are white, with many dark maroon spots. Recommended varieties include 'Dark Beauty' (plum pink with large pinky blue spots), 'Variegata (cream flowers with dark purple-red spots) and the primrose yellow Tricyrtis ohsumiensis. Originally woodland plants, toad lilies will grow anywhere In the garden, as long as you don’t let the soil get bone dry. |
Sarcococca
 With a beautiful honey scent, there are three fully hardy forms of Sarcococca, commonly known as Christmas box because it flowers around this time of the year. Sarcococca confusa, makes an erect shrub to 6ft. tall and 3ft. wide. Sarcococca hookeriana is more spreading, reaching 5ft. tall and 6ft. wide. There doesn't appear to be any cultivated varieties of S. confusa, but there are several of S. hookeriana. S. hybrid digyna has slender, tapered leaves and S. hybrid digyna 'Purple Stem' has young shoots flushed with purple, and pink flushed flowers. 'Roy Lancaster', also called 'Dragon's Gate' is very similar to 'Purple Stem'. Christmas box is not the same as the formal dwarf hedging box used in estate gardens that's buxus and this is Sarcococca, but they're both from the same family, Buxaceae. Other forms of Christmas box are dwarf, more like their buxus relations. S. humilis makes 2ft. x 3ft. and S. ruscifolia 3ft. x 3ft. Sarcococca humilis is fully hardy, but Sarcococca ruscifolia is just frost hardy. However, in all but the coldest areas it should be fine in a sheltered spot. just imagine a dwarf, evergreen hedge with scented flowers in winter. These species were introduced to our gardens from China. But there's one, Sarcococca saligna, that is a native of Afghanistan and Nepal, but it's flowers are not scented. At first sight Sarcococca might seem rather unspectacular, but it has a lot going for it, and not just that sensational scent. The tiny white flowers are borne in clusters in the leaf axils. They have no petals, but on Sarcococca hookeriana varieties the small sepals at the base of each flower are wine red, while Sarcococca humilis has anthers tipped with carmine red. The massed flowers look amazing. They're shade lovers, enjoying a spot in light or deep shade, so make a perfect choice for darker corners. They’re wonderful, glossy dark green leaves give year-round interest. The leaves, each around 2-3in. long, vary depending on species from oblong to lance shaped or elliptic and tapering. Most species and varieties are fairly compact, and the winter flowers are followed by attractive, glossy red or black berries that hang on the plant for months. Christmas box plants are very easy going. They like a moist, free draining soil and a shady spot, but will put up with a dry, free draining, poor dry soil if necessary. Trim or lightly prune the plants after flowering if they need it, and that's about it. They're not prone to any pest or disease problems, but none of them really like cold, drying winds. |
Daffodils
 There’s nothing better in spring than to see a front garden, a roadside or park, smothered in daffodils. It tells you spring is just round the corner. Their trumpets heralding the start of a new gardening year. They're commonly accepted as easy-to-grow plants, and yet countless people say theirs just haven't bloomed. Why? If you find yourself in the same situation perhaps you should check your bulbs were positioned where they'd get enough light. And what's your soil like? Moist, but well drained, is ideal. Were your bulbs competing with other plants? Or perhaps the clumps need dividing or are hungry. Generally, daffs don't need much feeding, but giving them a fertiliser low in nitrogen (nitrogen will encourage lots of leaf but little flower) just as the leaves emerge might give them the boost they need. Please do not strap the leaves of spent daffodils together with elastic bands once the flowers have gone. No matter how irritating a daffs leaves might be, they are the factories that produce food to sustain the bulb for next year's display, and they need to die down naturally. Keep watering your daffs for about six weeks after they've flowered until their foliage starts to wither. Only when leaves turn yellow should they be cut off. |
Climbers for Tubs
Morning Glory
Latin name.... lpomoea tricolor 'Heavenly Blue' Height 8ft. Flowering period Summer to early autumn
They usually only last a day - but moming glory flowers are glorious! The intense colour of 'Heavenly Blue' has to be seen to be believed. They are easy to grow as annuals from seed. Protect young plants from slugs and snails. Set several plants around the edge of a large 24in. pot fitted with John Innes No. 3, provide a cane or willow wigwam support and place in a bright position out of the hottest midday sun. Water regularly, feed once a month, and watch them romp away!
Rhodochiton
Latin name.... Rhodochiton astrosanguineus Height 1Oft. Flowering period Summer and autumn
Tender, deciduous perennial climber producing a dense mat of rich-green, heart-shaped leaves and masses of subtly coloured, tubular reddish purple flowers each around 2 in. long. Easy to grow from seed as an annual, or overwinter in a frost ree greenhouse. Plant in a medium sized pot of John Innes No. 2 compost, and train growth up a tall support. Water freely when in growth, and give a balanced liquid feed once a month.
Chilean Glory Flower
Latin name.... Eccremocarpas scaber Height 15ft. Flowering period Late spring to autumn
One of the best value climbers around, with a long flowering period and a super display of hot orange-red and yellow tubular blooms. The plants have lush, bright foliage and are vigorous, so can be grown as annuals from seed, or overwinter frost hardy plants in a sheltered spot. Grow in a 14in. pot of well drained John Innes No.2 in a sunny position. Twine the growth around a tall wigwam in the pot or up a trellis on the wall or fence. Water well and feed monthly.
Blackeyed Susan
Latin name.... Thumbergia alata Height 8ft. Flowering period Summer and autumn
Tender evergreen perennial twining climber that's easy to grow from seed, so best grown as an annual. Masses of bright yellow flowers around 1in. across with a very dark brown-purple centre are produced throughout the summer and autumn. Grow several plants in a large pot fitted with a 50-50 mix of John Innes No. 3 and peatbased multipurpose compost. Train up bamboo canes or up a trellis on the wall or fence. Feed monthly.
Spanish Flag
Latin name.... lpomoea lobata Height up to 15ft. Flowering period Summer and autumn
From the same family, and just as stunning, but what a difference from lpomoea 'Heavenly Blue'!
Spanish Rag produces stems crammed down one side with scarlet, tubular flowers that age to orange, then yellow and white. It's fast and quite easy to grow from seed, so treat this tender beauty as an
annual. Grow two or three plants together in a 18in. Pot filled with John Innes No 3 in full light, but shaded from the hottest sun - a place on your patio out of the fierce, midday heat is perfect.
Gloriosa vine
Latin name.... Gloriosa rothschildianus superba Height 6ft. Flowering period Summer and autumn
The flowers of this beauty have to be seen to be believed. Blooms up to 4in. across with petals like flames are carried on slender stems throughout summer and autumn. This tender tuberous perennial is ideal for pots. Grow it in a medium sized 14in. pot fitted with John Innes No. 2 with some extra grit mixed in, and train the stems up a 4-5ft. frame fixed in the pot. Give a liquid feed fortnightly when in growth.
Wisteria
Latin name.... Wisteria sinensis Height 28ft. unpruned. Flowering period Late spring to early summer
Usually grown on the front wall of a house, hardy, climbing wisterias can be trained in containers as standards and small shrubs, giving their large dangling racemes of lilac to white flowers more impact. You will be able to enjoy the fragrance more easily, too. Grow in a large pot of John Innes No. 3 compost, a provide a strong support for the twining stem. Prune tightly in summer and hard in winter. After several years when the stem has thickened, the support can be removed.
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Cannas
 | | Cannas are easy plants for any garden. They produce sensational blooms and delightful leaves that combine beautifully with many other plants to create a tropical look. Cannas need strong partners to help them look their best in British gardens. A single canna in the middle of a flower bed will look lost, even two or three together can look out of place when surrounded by dainty bedding plants. But when planted with other big, bold, vibrant plants, cannas will achieve their full potential. One such companion is Musa basjoo, the 'hardy' banana. Both cannas and bananas produce shoots that unfurl, and both types have foliage that flap in the breeze. Growing cannas with bananas makes sense, as they require the same conditions. Both need warm, sunny sites and plenty of water, both need some protection in winter, although I have left some of my cannas out for the last couple of years and they have survived, and both can be grown in large containers either on a patio or sunk into borders. There are many different varieties of canna. The gladiolus-like flowers range from blood red, through orange to bright yellow, some spotted and marked like orchids. The large, paddle shaped leaves are eye-catching with strong, straight veins of yellow or pink across a background from purple to bright green depending on the variety. Canna 'King Humbert' has blood red flowers and purple leaves. Another plant that grows well with cannas is Miscanthus sinensis 'Zebrinus', also known as zebra grass. Canna ‘tropicanna’, has orange flowers. Canna 'Striata'. has banana-shaped leaves and are a combination of yellow stripes on a green background. Canna 'Pretoria' has pink stems and orange flowers, produced from mid summer. The variety 'Wyoming' is always at the top of the canna growers list. Purple leaves surround sensational orange flowers. It's hard to beat, though Canna 'Picasso' comes close. Resembling the markings on a tropical fish, the gold, white and red spotting on the flower is superb. It's amazing that something so ornate will thrive in a typical UK summer. Canna 'Rosemond Coles' has orange and yellow edged blooms, Canna 'Erebus' has shocking pink flowers, and Canna 'Verdi' deep orange-red blooms and red flushed leaves. These are just a few of many great varieties. Try them with other big, bold and brightly coloured plants in your garden. |
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Winter scented shrubs
 If there’s one thing we seem to forget in winter is scent in the garden. All gardeners know that summer scent is an easy thing with roses, lilies and honeysuckle all through June and July. But come the winter, with winds and frosts the idea of scent is forgotten. But it is easily solved. Daphne, and sarcococca or Christmas box are two shrubs that have the most wonderful honey scent. Try Daphne bholua 'Darjeeling' or Daphne mezereum alba 'Bowles' Variety. Or go for Sarcococca hookeriana 'Purple Stem'. It's smaller than a daphne which will reach 8ft where this will only grow to 4ft. with blush pink flowers on purplish green leaves. Mahonia is another winter shrub with a lily-of-the-valley scent. Go for the tried and tested Mahonia japonica. which will reach 10ft. There’s also a winter honeysuckle, Lonicera fragrantissima with its cream flowers on naked branches, or the pink flowered Viburnum x bodnantense. Both are worth growing. But plant both where they have room to grow as they're not small plants. |
Mallows
 These tough shrubs and annuals are brilliant bloomers and are not at all fussy when it comes to soils and conditions. They need a sunny spot and prefer lighter, well drained soils which makes them ideal for those areas with dry, thin soil. The shrub varieties are tough and spend the summer covered in flowers. The only thing they don’t like are chilly winds so if possible choose a warm, sheltered spot in your garden. They make a tremendous amount of growth each year, up to 5ft. and sometimes much more and flower abundantly on every stem, but they can quickly take over your garden if not kept in check. Cut them back hard each spring to within roughly a foot from the base. Don't be nervous about being this brutal, as they will quickly shoot away. Top varieties include 'Barnsley' which has white flushed flowers centred with red. 'Ice Cool' with pure white blooms; 'Kew Rose' which has bright pink flowers and 'Burgundy Wine' with rich, dark pink blooms. If you think that annuals are more to your liking, the annual lavatera grow as quickly as the shrubs and will produce 2-3ft. plants. Flowers come in mixed shades of rich pinks and white like 'Parade' or in pure white like 'Mont Blanc'. Another worth trying is the pink, silvery veined 'Silver Cup'. These are easy to grow as they can be sown right up to the end of May or started off in pots on the windowsill now and planted out once they've been potted on and are a few inches tall. |
HELLEBORES
 Hellebores are great plants for brightening up the winter and spring months, flowering their hearts out from December into April even in the worst of weather. They come in a beautiful range of colours and foliage types but plants can be very expensive to buy. The best bet is to try and raise some plants from seed, and now is the best time to do it. They may take three years to flower but you can guarantee that they will be well worth the wait. As a rule they're easy to grow from seed and it's very rewarding when they flower for the first time. Probably the most widely grown variety is Helleborus niger, the Christmas rose. It's a sturdy plant about 12in. tall, with creamy white, saucer-shaped flowers with bright yellow anthers in the centre. Helleborus purpuraseens has wonderfully striking foliage with blue-green, toothed leaves as well as flowers in shades of purple through to pink and even slate-grey. Helleborus odorus has, as the name suggests; a strong scent coming from its unusual, bright green flowers, which can be over 3in.across. The plants themselves are larger too at nearly 16in. tall. Hellebore seeds germinate best when fresh so it’s best if one can collect it yourself from friends' plants. Put the seed in the fridge for about a month before you sow as this helps to break the dormancy of the seed. Then sow the seed on to the surface of a moist well-drained compost and cover with sieved compost or fine grit to a depth of about 4-5mm. Place in a shady cold frame or similar place to germinate at roughly 15-20'C (59-68'F). Make sure you keep checking that trays haven't dried out and the seed should begin germinate after a month. This should give you well established seedlings to pot up and overwinter in a cold greenhouse or frame to plant out next spring. |
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